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Environment As the EU targets emissions cuts, this country has a coal problem. Paid Content How Hong Kong protects its sea sanctuaries. History Magazine These 3,year-old giants watched over the cemeteries of Sardinia. Magazine How one image captures 21 hours of a volcanic eruption. Science Why it's so hard to treat pain in infants. Dolphins are chosen for captivity in the cove, while the rest of them are slaughtered for meat markets. The town itself pockets some of the money from brokering dolphins overseas.
The International Marine Mammal Project IMMP of Earth Island Institute and other organizations have been testing dolphin meat caught in drive hunts, revealing that the dolphins, at the top of the food chain, are heavily contaminated by mercury and PCBs. The meat is not fit to eat, but the corrupt Japanese Fisheries Agency turns a blind eye to such pollution. Yukai Resort Koshinoyu is one of the best places to stay in the area, offering space, quietude and comfort, Japanese-style, looking directly out over the sea.
Features superb Japanese cuisine that takes advantage of its ocean proximity. The hotel offers hot-spring baths, both indoor and outdoor, massages, a summertime outdoor pool plus breakfast and evening meals. Wharf Cafe Nieche is a very friendly, basic guest house with excellent food, a minute or two from Taiji Station.
It was in extended chats with the owner that I realized how the whole Taiji conundrum effects the lives and livelihoods of citizens living in the town, who have nothing to do with the dolphin drive. The first express train to Shingu Station from Nagoya is the 8. The present fare is 7, yen. The Japan Rail Pass is valid on this route. A local loop bus connects with incoming trains and runs to the Taiji Whale Museum. Taiji Station has pamphlets and maps to help tourists get around Taiji.
Regular buses which are cheaper than the train from the Meitetsu bus station at Meitetsu Nagoya Station run to Shingu via Kumano. From Shingu there are trains to Taiji. Locals buses connect Shingu with Kumano-shi. There are also regular buses to Shingu from Kii-Katsuura taking about 36 minutes from 7am to 8pm.
While the rest of the town sleeps, they sip from cans of hot coffee, smoke cigarettes and talk in hushed tones. As soon as the sun edges above the peninsula, they take to their boats, steering out to sea in formation in search of their prey: the dolphin. Requests for interviews with town officials went unanswered; the fishermen took a vow of silence. Kai attributes that reticence down to what he claims are attempts by activists from Sea Shepherd and other conservation groups to manufacture confrontations, which they film and post online, and challenges claims that the practice of slaughtering dolphins beneath tarpaulin sheets is proof that he and his fellow fishermen have something to hide.
The earliest recorded coastal whale hunts in Taiji can be traced back to the early s. We are grateful to the whales — we want Westerners to understand that. By killing dolphins and other small whales, fishermen are continuing a tradition that enabled their ancestors to survive before the days of mass transport and the availability of other sources of nutrition, adds Sangen.
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